ART OF LIVING ARTY

Saint Germain is a myth. The so-called Latin Quarter has been so influential and inspirational – think of Sartre, think of the events of May 1968 – that any sudden bursts of demonstration near La Sorbonne will get an immediate symbolic status. Now the neighborhood has moved to something different, balancing between the intellectual life and more down-to-earth pleasures. Yet the headquarters of French literature are still concentrated in a small set of streets, and gens-de-lettres and tv personalities play expected cameos in le Flore et le Deux Magots. After years of monetizing on the glory days, StMichel to StGermain are knitting their new costumes, with a touch of affordable luxury and loose urban elegance.

Going westward from St Michel will take you across an intricate net of streets and wonders, home of arty cinemas and small boutiques. Around Rue Saint André des Arts, then rue de Buci, what looks like a building entrance may as well lead you to some cobblestone alleys (called cour or passage). History prevails, and a drink at the Procope feels like a trip through time.

Unless you are caught in an existentialist quest, St Germain will seem right up to the minute. Boutiques and cafés drag an idle crowd biding endless time with renewed curiosity for shopping and doing-nothingness.
Leave the Deux-Magots behind and head down rue Bonaparte to rue Jacob and rue de Seine if you’re looking for inspiration. A dense network of galleries revolves around the national Ecole des Beaux-Arts, whose occasional thematic shows give an unconventional insight into art history.
Along the Seine, the discreetly elegant area contrasts with the ever-busy rue de Buci.
Slowly shifting to the noble 7^th, benefiting from its view of the river, opposite the Louvre and Tuileries garden, the quai offers more than a romantic promenade. Further down, the Musée d‘Orsay has become a brilliant counterpart to the Louvre. The ever-growing show of XIXth century Art is not to be missed, especially if Impressionism is your heart’s favourite.

Back on rue des Saint-Pères, there’s definitely a change in moods from the extravaganza of the young cafés two streets away. The quiet residential surroundings of delicate St Sulpice live peacefully side-by-side with antique dealers and fashion. Look for a new outfit on rue du Cherche-Midi, rue Madame will provide a new Italian perfume, and macarons from Pierre Hermé will grab you no matter what. You’ll then think about life as Marie-Antoinette at Café de la Mairie, whose terrasse literally sits on Saint-Sulpice.
If you’re in a homecooking mood with some friends, you’ll finally hit le Marché St Germain or the historical Bon Marché. We don’t have the recipe for a good time, but you’ll sure have all the ingredients.